Beyond the glittering skyscrapers and viral sensations, a different Dubai awaits, offering a glimpse of its rich traditions and even a convenient budget escape.
While many flock to see the world’s tallest building, marvel at the heaviest gold ring, or chase TikTok’s famous chocolate shop, another side of the emirate thrives.
Here, across the creek from the city’s dazzling modernity, a quiet, traditional Emirati-style house offers a peaceful retreat, representing a part of Dubai steeped in heritage and surprisingly accessible.
As I arrive from the dark British morning to the 38°C heat of Dubai, the city’s relentless 2am hustle and bustle is jarring. However, a short trip across the creek to the historic Al Seef district quickly brings a sense of calm.
At the El Saif Heritage Hotel by Hilton, we’re greeted with a glass of chilled pomegranate juice before a golf cart whisks us to our rooms in a flat-roofed, low-rise building with a balcony that offers stunning views of the lights and city skyline across the water.
Tastes, sights, sounds of old Dubai
I would never say no to walking in Beyoncé’s shoes. The next morning, I followed suit by visiting the Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Center for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU) in one of Dubai’s oldest districts for a feast of food and culture.
Over a snack consisting of chicken biryani, rice, bread and small round donuts covered in date syrup, guide Noura Al Marzooqi explains traditional hospitality in Dubai.
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Nora tells about the layout of the old house and how the rooms are used for living and hosting. He reveals that serving a small cup of coffee is a sign of affection to guests – meaning the hosts want you to stay with them longer.
No question is off limits, from clothing to traditions to head coverings, as she patiently explains how local Emirati clothing protects them from the intense heat.
Explore markets
Dubai’s oldest chain of markets in Al Khor area is another evocative way to feel the spirit of the city. I find vendors selling everything from spices to gold to flowers, clothes, perfumes and all kinds of food in the narrow streets.
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Katki of Frying Pan Adventures describes these areas as the arteries of the city, as she takes us to some of the most popular grocery stores. Among them, we can mention Al-Sheiba Bakery, which, despite the heat, bakes Afghani bread day and night for one of the tastiest and cheapest snacks in the city. Still hot from the oven, honey soon drips from my fingers as I bite into cheese and honey bread and sip some hot sweet tea.
Part of the tour includes a short boat transfer across the creek to another part of the bazaars, where the Hindu influence is evident with bright colors and fresh flowers.
Our tour ends at the Al Khaimah Heritage Restaurant, where the owners pride themselves on traditional decor and local favorites such as the flavorful lamb biryani served on a low table.
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Desert Safari
One of my most magical travel experiences is the Heritage Safari by vintage Land Rover. Platinum Heritage ensures we’re well prepared, and we wrap our heads in scarves to protect from the sun as we drive vintage Land Rovers down the sands as far as the eye can see.
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Conservation guide Amjad Mahmoud is clearly interested in the scenery and wildlife, explaining the conservation efforts, slowing down to allow us to catch glimpses of oix and the more elusive small sand lizards scurrying around the dunes.
As the sun begins to set, we arrive at a beautiful campsite for a feast under the stars for a falconry show. After the camel ride, we enjoy a musical performance and lie down on carpets and low sofas to watch a guided star session with a hookah.
Luxury in the modern city
It is impossible to visit Dubai and not be amazed by the aspects that have made this city world famous. Next to the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world, is the Frame, a large golden frame that stretches to the sky. The added benefit is an exhibition that charts the rapid evolution of the city from the mid-20th century to today. An elevator zooms up the 48-story structure in just 75 seconds to reveal panoramic views of the city.
Yacht tours from Dubai Marina offer a different view of the city as you pass towering skyscrapers in various stages of construction. But no trip to Dubai is complete without visiting the famous Palm Jumeirah, home to some of the world’s most luxurious hotels, and the nearby seven-star Burj Al Arab.
Yes, you can save and splurge on an exotic visit, but you can also have an authentic experience without breaking the bank.
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how to do it
Rooms at the Al Seef Heritage Hotel start from AED 845 (£176) with breakfast.
For more information to visitdubai.com
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